Kimonos

THINGS TO WEAR

The era in which the Japanese folk clothing we currently know as the kimono started to form is thought to have been from the Heian era (which started in 794) onward. Thin fabrics were worn in layers, and different materials were adopted for different seasons, like hemp for summer. The clothing was adapted to the Japanese climate (karaginu-mo apparel).
In those times, layering colors became important, and the combination could indicate noble rank or political significance.
The graceful junihitoe, which was layered to coincide with status, and the osode (open sleeved) and kosode (tight sleeved) became common wear for both aristocrats and nobility.

 

Subsequently, the clothing changed gradually over a period of many years. The layering was simplified, and people began to wear kosode only. The kimono took on a more reasonable form that was easier to wear and made it easier to move. In the Momoyama era, kosode apparel became even more gorgeous. Traditional Japanese techniques like vividly colorful foil leaf, shibori tie dying, and shishu embroidery began to be applied elaborately.

And upon entering the Genroku period (1688-1704) of the Edo era, the sleeve length and obi belt width began to change gradually. With a more functional and breathability oriented miyatsukuchi (side slit), it transformed into a kosode garment that was almost the exact same form as what is seen today.

 

The era in which these garments would morph into the current form of a kimono with a fukuro obi belt was still far in the future, in a period from the Meiji era to the Showa era. Then, amidst everyday clothing transforming from the kimono to Western garments along with the changes in the times, kimonos came to be worn only for special occasions and events.

Kimonos became special attire to wear on ceremony days, with the male version consisting of a haori jacket and hakama leggings worn over a crested montsuki robe of kurohabutae black silk cloth, and the female version consisting of a chirimen weave, montsuki crest, susomoyo pattern, and shitagasane underdress (subsequently the formal tomesode and semi-formal homongi), with a maru obi belt.

 

Incidentally, what has not changed at all today is the chokusendachi tailoring method in which fabric is cut and sewn together in straight lines. This is still maintained today as a traditional technique. All kimonos are produced using this method.

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